Inductions

Inductions

Scanners

In this induction I learn t how to use 3 different scanners for film negs trans and positives, the scanner I reckon I will be using in this project and hopefully the most from now on is the Nikon cool scan Ls9000 due to the high resolution it can achieve the process is quite simple first of all I have to use a loop to check the sharpness of the image then I insert my negs,trans or positives into the carrier making sure the shinny sides facing up, turn the scanner on and go to the Nikon scan 4 software, in this part I can preview the image and change the dpi which will more than likely be changed to a massive 4000 dpi which is a 67 meg file 3 times larger than a D90's image, all editing will be done in photoshop as the software the scanners use could be up to 15 years old and will not be as advanced as P.S.
The only options in the scanning software I will use is ICE4 which cleans the dust off of your negative then rescans the image and multiple scan which scans your negative up to 16 times to extract a better res. This process for one image can be up to 13 mins long but when it comes to my final images I will gladly suffer the wait this could take me up to 3 hours to scan 15 images but the result will be mega high quality images.
One of the other scanners we were introduced to were the Epson V750 which is a A4 scanner, the scanners software is called Epson scan and its res can go up to a massive 12000for this scanner you simply put your negs in a special holder and put in as if you were to be scanning a documents after this it is the same as the Nikon.
the last scanner we were taught about was the Russian Reflector MF5000 the software is called Siber max and is very similar to the Nikon other than the res is not quite as good coming in at 3200 and you have to manually move the neg carrier to scan different images. 
- Wear white gloves to avoid getting finger prints on your scans.
-Use colour scan even if your negs are black and white it produces better quality.
-once scanned save asap just in case the scanner crashes.

Filters 

This is an example of the graduated filter its purpose it to stop the sky from bleaching by basically stopping so much light go through the lens where the sky is but letting the foreground keep its original exposure. The filter also brings the contrast out more also so you can get quite dramatic sky's.

This Example shows the Natural Density filter in work, this filter is best used for slow shutter speed shots as it holds back light which allows you to have the shutter speed slower with less risk of over exposure. The filter also gives a nice hue to it.

The Circular Polorizer filter is mainly for taking away glare and reflections but it also deepens the colour of the sky, it does this by having 2 lenses and by twisting the lenses I am able to refract light at different depths of the scene.

Medium format camera(Mamiya 645)

The medium format camera I got inducted on today (17/4/13) is called a Mamiya 645 1000.s model, the camera is a Japanese make and is called a 645 because of the dimensions of the shutter being 6cm by 4.5cm. The standard lens that comes with this camera is a 80mm, the camera uses 120mm film which has 15 shots. This camera has no internal light meter and requires a hand held light meter to obtain the right exposure. The camera also has a M.U button on the right hand side which allows  me to bring the mirror up reducing the amount of camera shake the mirror creates when the shutter is released the mirror flies up to avoid being in the path of the image, this can make the camera shake but by pressing the M.U button after I have lined up the photo and am ready to release the shutter so it does not come up during the shot and risking having a slight camera shake.